Ellukari- JFI for Love April 27, 2008

“Ellu” in tamil means sesame seeds. I wish I could give you a specific meaning for “kari” without resorting to the commonly misused term “curry” which is often used to describe the gravy or sauce of a dish. The problem I have with the over-generalization of curry as a sauce is that in Indian cooking the sauce is integral to the preparation of the dish and is not prepared or cooked separate from what the “star” ingredient is. Yes, there are some dishes such as Kofta and Kadhi that you can “assemble” before you serve. For the most part, the meat or the vegetable is cooked in the gravy from the beginning of the preparation. Enough of my tirade….
So, ellukari is a palakkad iyer specialty that was a staple in our home growing up, when Chenai (or Senai Kazhangu or Yam) was in season. The other, more prevalent preparations of chenai in the south is to fry it or “roast” in oil (this is a typical tamilnadu preparation) or Chenai upperi or mazhukuparatti (these are Kerala style preparations). This recipe of ellukari is my mom’s- I love the recipe for its simplicity and yet the complexity of the flavors it has..not to mention that a little bit is enough to get those taste buds going!!
My mom is a very creative cook- she finds uses for ingredients in Indian cooking that one wouldn’t think of- for example, tomatillos. It was my mom who started using tomatillos as a substitute for tamarind in sambar and rasam. I remember when growing up, we used to taste a different cuisine almost everyday- one day it would be a maharashtrian thalipeeth, the next day a punjabi kadhi and then a traditional south india meal. I think I’m inspired to tinker with recipes because of my mom, and get the passion for discovering a myriad of tastes from her…..Ellukari is my contribution to Pedatha’s JFI event- JIHVA for Love.
What you Need
- 1 Pkt Frozen YamÊ
- 4 Dried Red Chillies
- 1/2 tsp cooking oil
- 2 T Urad dal
- 1 cm piece of Asafoetida (or 1/2 tsp of asafoetida powder)
- 4 Curry leaves
- 2 tsp of black sesame seeds
- 1/4 cup of coconut (optional)Ê
- 1 Tbsp of Tamarind concentrate
- Jaggery (optional)
- 1/2 tsp of Turmeric powder
- Salt to taste
- 1/2 cup of water
- For Tempering- 1 tsp of cooking oil (sesame oil will give additional flavor),1 tsp of mustard seeds, 1 tsp of Methi (fenugreek) seeds
How its done
- Defrost the yam and cut the pieces into smaller pieces (tastes better in small pieces)
- Heat the oil in a heavy bottom saucepan and add the mustard. When the mustard starts spluttering, add the methi seeds.
- Now, add the defrosted yam and roast for a few seconds.Ê
- Then add the tamarind, water, salt and turmeric and let boil till the raw smell of tamarind is gone- 3-5 minutes.
- In the meanwhile,in a small pan, roast in 1/2 tsp of oil ingredients 2 through 7 till the urad dal is light brown in color and a nutty aroma is emitted from the pan. If using coconut, add it at this stage, mix and turn off the heat. Grind this masala into a smooth paste.
- When the yam is half cooked in the tamarind water, add the masala paste and cook for 5 minutes till completely cooked. If using jaggery, add it after the yam is cooked and heat through for a minute before turning off the heat.

A rainy, cold day like today deserves something spicy and piping hot! My sis had sent this recipe to me a few weeks ago and it was a perfect One Pot Meal to try tonight. Its simple and takes as long as a cooker (electric rice cooker or pressure cooker) takes to cook.
This is a quick weeknight meal- takes less than an hour to make start to finish. Again, hail microwave! That has to be the greatest discovery in the 20th century (or is the internet the greatest discovery….I guess the jury’s still out on this one!). Anyway, getting back to my south indian meal. The recipe for Beans Usili is from my mother in law. G loves usili and the first time I made usili was in 2004, after observing G’s mom make it. Now, usili has to be part of a meal with rice and a gravy dish to be enjoyed (although, it tastes really yummy with a cup of curds(yogurt) as well) and I usually make it with rasam (or vethakozhambu- something tangy to complement it). The idea of tomatillo rasam was inspired by my mom. She uses tomatillo as a substitute for tamarind ( tomatillos are tangy and sour and are usually used to make salsa verde; you can read more about it